5 Tips for Street Photography Beginners 
by Kai
 At  one point in my photography life I only did landscapes. At one point, I    was happily content with trekking through fields, stepping in cow  pats, making   my way up a bloody big hill in order to get one elusive  shot. It was incredibly   therapeutic: it was mainly about enjoying the  journey and, when you arrive,   soaking up the environment in your own  time and thinking about the shot; the   light, the filters you’ll use  and taking your time to get composition so that   the trees all line up  with however those photography books told you it would   look good like.
At  one point in my photography life I only did landscapes. At one point, I    was happily content with trekking through fields, stepping in cow  pats, making   my way up a bloody big hill in order to get one elusive  shot. It was incredibly   therapeutic: it was mainly about enjoying the  journey and, when you arrive,   soaking up the environment in your own  time and thinking about the shot; the   light, the filters you’ll use  and taking your time to get composition so that   the trees all line up  with however those photography books told you it would   look good like.  
The buzz you get from shooting street photography is completely different: there’s no time to stand there to soak up the fresh air (well, the air isn’t that fresh anyway) and contemplate your shot nor is there a planned journey to get your shot. Street shooting is rewarding because you don’t know what you’re going to get until you see it, it’s like a photographic box of chocolates (well, at least that’s probably what Forrest Gump would say). But there’s a whole lot more than just seeing something, because you have to capture it too. Knowing when to press the button and seeing the shot at the end is a great feeling. Henri Cartier Bresson was a complete genius, not just for being such a talented artist, but also for summing up street photography with two words: “decisive moment.”
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1. Don’t look like you’re a convicted sex criminal 
           Sounds silly, but think about what kind of person you would trust   coming up to you and taking a photo of you. 
2. Settings
 Either don’t bother setting the camera   settings at all and snap away  or think about it before you get into the zone.   You don’t want to  faff about when that shot is about to be made because you’re   just  making things harder for yourself. If you’re just starting out then you    might want to try putting it on P mode to begin with and just  concentrate on   shooting. Don’t give a crap what some trolls on the  internet say about P mode   not being “pro”, that’s utter tripe. 
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To be honest, I use Aperture-Priority mode quite often when doing street stuff. Then I team that up with choosing spot-metering, which is something that I’ve gotten used to when shooting Leicas, and lock the metering and focus on the subject (centre point) and then recompose. But, of course, you can choose the metering that suits your style more.
Shooting with a Leica M on the street is a slightly different process but if you’re using a DSLR then the point is essentially the same: have those settings ready before hand so you don’t have to think so much about the settings when you are busy taking that shot.
3. Get into the zone
 I  think that there’s nothing more   threatening than someone shooting  with a long lens from afar. Snipers are scary,   a man with a handgun  less so. At least with close quarters stuff - from the   point of view  of the person on the receiving end - they are within punching   distance  of you.
I  think that there’s nothing more   threatening than someone shooting  with a long lens from afar. Snipers are scary,   a man with a handgun  less so. At least with close quarters stuff - from the   point of view  of the person on the receiving end - they are within punching   distance  of you. 
Treat your subject like a stray cat (no need to stroke their head): approach slowly or else they’ll notice you and think you’re a convicted sex criminal, and then make your intentions clear without forcing it in their face. Usually when you are this close you will know whether they want their shot taken or not, whether they are comfortable with you around with a camera, or simply think that you look like a deviant.
4. Judge your subjects
         
            Alright,  so there’s all that   hoo-haa about teaching you how not to judge a  book by its cover (which was   probably first said by an ugly person),  but in this case you should. Once you’ve   studied some human behaviour  you can kinda tell how they are going to react when   they have their  photo taken or just a camera pointed their way. If they look   like they  don’t want their photo taken then you don’t force it or you ask    politely. Then thing is, once you’ve asked them, the shot usually  doesn’t have   that mood in there anymore because they will probably  pose for you. Even if you   have taken the shot and they show their  discontent (which is a nice way of   saying “pissed off”) about having  their photo taken then you just give in and   stop it.
Alright,  so there’s all that   hoo-haa about teaching you how not to judge a  book by its cover (which was   probably first said by an ugly person),  but in this case you should. Once you’ve   studied some human behaviour  you can kinda tell how they are going to react when   they have their  photo taken or just a camera pointed their way. If they look   like they  don’t want their photo taken then you don’t force it or you ask    politely. Then thing is, once you’ve asked them, the shot usually  doesn’t have   that mood in there anymore because they will probably  pose for you. Even if you   have taken the shot and they show their  discontent (which is a nice way of   saying “pissed off”) about having  their photo taken then you just give in and   stop it. 
5. Watch and predict what they are going to do
           When you   are at a location, there won’t always be  something happening for you to just   waltz on in and casually take your  photo. Spend a bit of time not just to look   whether they look like  they will cave your head in for taking their photo but   also get a feel  of what kind of person they are, what they are doing on the   street,  where are they going, what action are they going to do next. It makes    the photo much more interesting if you at least have a bit of empathy  for your   subject. 
 The thing with street photography is that you won't always have stuff to  shoot. It doesn't matter that you're not creating Henri Cartier-Bresson  street shots to begin with - as the master himself says "your first  10,000 shots are your worst" - what matters is that you get out there  and spend lots of time shooting. Of course there will be some shots that  are complete rubbish, but you'll also get your keepers too. What  matters most is that by shooting more you will get more practice, and  the more practice you get the more comfortable you will feel with your  camera and the situation, which will mean that you only need to think  just a little bit about the shot rather than fumbling around with your  camera and getting scared or scaring off your subject.
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|  | Kai presenter  of DigitalRev TV, is passionate about photography and collecting camera  equipment that he never uses but caresses gently in his spare time. He  has a tendency to talk about his love for Nikon & Leica equipment as  well as speaking his mind in a rather forthright manner. | 

 
 
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